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Building the Victoria - Standing Rigging

Forestay Addition

by Hal Slentz-Whalen

Without the forestay, the kit jib does not have a clean solid leading edge (sail luff) which makes the boat difficult to tack in any breeze above 1 knot of windspeed. There is guidance on this subject in Gybetalk...my experience says:

Go to "Boaters World" discount marine supplier (or close facsimile) and go to the fishing rod section to look for Leader wire, specifically 25 pound test-nylon covered stainless leader....and then pick up a small bag of appropriate crush swedge connectors for that size.

To attach: Jib Club; drill a very small hole (1/8" or less) completely thru (slight angle back okay) as far forward on the club as possible. Drill same size in the mast about one inch above the jumper spreader location. The leader wire is then threaded thru the jib club and run thru crush swedge fitting and then doubled back into the fitting slipping the loop down to its smallest opening (no opening)...then crush with needle nose pliers in two spot and trim away excess.

To attach: at the Mast; the approach is similar but different. I've found that making the forestay an adjustable component of your rig is important in adjusting mast rake (I try to run the jib club as close as possible to the deck, just sweeping the deck like the Big Boats.. thinking this reduces healing action having the sail at the lowest setting). Therefore, you'll need to make a loop in the leader just above where the forestay attaches to the jib at the top edge of the jib luff (attaching the jib to the forestay is no problem with
professionally made sails, sailmakers provide a seam or do the attachment and provide the leader....the kit has no such thing, therefore you'll need some kind of lightweight strong tape, sailmakers would have this...never actually tried to adapt the kit sails, because they were bad from day one). Then run a small section of kit rigging line (best to replace this too, with Braided spectra line (called SPIDER WIRE in the fishing section again)) with a three (or four holed bowsie for thin spectra braid) holed bowsie adjuster that is attached at the mast one (1) inch above the Jumper Spreader. Attachment technique for braid line is your choice; i.e. drill hole and attach smallest eyebolt ever found (SMALL PART INC.,1-800-220-4242, www.smallparts.com) or you make a small figure eight connector [bent out of 1/64th brass then silver soldered for strength] that is bolted (or drilled and tapped as appropriate for the hardware) thru the mast with 0-80 stainless nut and bolt from SMALL PARTS (and some Hobby stores have small connectors).

Whew.....seems difficult to read but will make a lot of sense in making the boat work well and be adjustable....note: mast should always be perpendicular to the deck (a little square or drafting triangle is useful for this measurement) to ensure the main and jib swing out properly when going downwind.

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Cotterpin or Eyescrew for Shroud Attachment?

from VRC Forum

Rick Moynahan:

What are the pro/con's of using Cotter Pin VS Eyelet screws to replace the plastic pins?
I'm guessing the difference would be weight. I would have to reinforce the screw with a hard wood under the deck. The cotter pin could just be installed and spread under the deck. Getting to it may be tricky.

 

Tom Causin:

I wonder if over time the cotter pin might begin to give, where as the threaded eye.....won't. Is it worth that? I believe the "one bad tack rule" applies.. Just one bad tack negates all the go fast stuff (yes I've got all the go fasts too)! And it all adds up!! But, Build for the blow but build to common sense. My vote.. Cotter pins in non stress areas and threaded on stress areas. What about a "brass L channel and small brass screws? The cotter pins may work for this season but what about when you are really comfortable..next season, on a fast reach or beating up wind in a blow. Don't need a failure then!!

 

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